From Hovd Travel in Mongolia
Map of Hovd City with the larger restaurants written in red
Contents |
Places to Eat
The dining options in Hovd have been expanding of late. While most restaurants serve variations of the same dishes, new offerings have been appearing on the scene. From Korean food, to Chinese, to a vegetarian restaurant, to pizza. But when visiting a restaurant, keep in mind that just because an item is on the menu doesn’t mean it is available that day. The time tables are official opening and closing times. However, opening and closing times tend to be more flexible in Mongolia versus other places in the world. The names of food items are written below in English and in Mongolian, so they can be located on the Mongolian-language menus.
When looking through this page if you find yourself wondering what a Huushuur (Хуушуур) or Mongolian Schnitzel (Шницель) looks like, you can scroll to the bottom of this page for sample pictures of some of the more common food found at restaurants in Hovd.
The information on this page is current as of May 20, 2009.
Splurge
Restaurants (as opposed to "guanzes" - see below) offer more expensive, less traditional Mongolian food. Usually comes with sides of rice with ketchup, mashed potatoes and pickled or mayo-ed veggies. Most restaurants also have packaged snacks sold at marked-up prices. Beer, wine and vodka are also available.
- Ikh Mongol (Их Монгол), Monday - Sunday 9 a.m. –Midnight. One of the pricier menus in town, a popular restaurant for dinner parties and private-room karaoke. There are pictures of main dishes on the menu to assist those who cannot read Mongolian. Ikh Mongol’s food selection is a bit more unique and varied than other restaurants but the service can be a bit slow. Many dishes can be shared. Ikh Mongol Soup (Их Монгол Шөл - 1,900T), Egg Stir Fry (Өндөгтэй Хуурга - 3,600T), Chinese Stir Fry (Наашаа Цааш - 4,800T), Meat and Egg Stir Fry with Black Mushrooms (Хар Мөөгтэй Өндөгтэй Махан Хуурга - 4,500T). Unlike the Ikh Mongol restaurant in Ulaanbaatar, this branch does not sell draft beer.
Mid-Range
- Naran Tuv (Наран Төв), Monday - Saturday, 9 a.m. - 10 p.m. This bright yellow restaurant is clean, neat, and spacious. Located near the Black Market between the light green "XAAH" Bank and the light yellow "XAC" Bank buildings. This seems to be the place to take visiting VIPs (when the Bulgarian president visited Hovd in 2007, this is where he ate). The biggest disco bar in Hovd is on the second floor and stays open until midnight. Seats around 40. Fried fish (Шарсан Загас - 2,800T), Meat and Egg Stir Fry (Өндөгтэй Махан Хуурга - 3,000T), Shnitzel (Бүрмэл Шницель - 2,800T), Black Soup with Bread (Бинтэй Хар Шөл - 2,600T).
- Winners Cafe, Monday - Saturday, 10 a.m. - Midnight. With a central location, right off the square, the restaurant is busy during lunch time, but you can usually find a seat. The more expensive dishes are meant to be shared. Supplementary menus appear and disappear and reappear from time to time, offering choices that are harder to find in western Mongolia, such as Korean food or a list of dishes that all include chicken. Also has private karaoke rooms in the back. Korean Food: Су Кальби - 10,000T, Kimchi Stew (Кимчи Жигэ - 4,000T). Mongolian Food: Egg Beefsteak (Өндөгтэй Бифштекс - 2,200T). Black Mushroom Stir Fry with Peppers (Хар Мөөгтэй Чинжүүтэй Хуурга - 4,400T). Goulash (Гуляш - 2,000T).
- Tsomorlig Cafe (Цоморлиг), Monday - Friday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Closed on Sundays. This small restaurant with a green sign opposite the police station is always packed during the lunchtime rush. Tsomorlig offers a wide range of stir-fry dishes every day, with a white board by the door displaying what's available that day. The main meals are served on cow-shaped iron skillets. Kimchi Stir Fry (Кимчитэй Хуурга - 3,000T). Tsomorlig Stir Fry (Цоморлиг Хуурга - 2,600T). Black Mushroom Stir Fry (Хар Мөөгтэй Хуурга - 4,400T). Egg and Kimchi Stir Fry (Өндөг Кимчитэй Хуурга - 2,900T).
- Uguumur Restaurant (Өгөөмөр), Daily except Thursdays, 11 a.m. - Midnight. A worthwhile place to eat, located about a minute north of the main square on the left hand side. The name of the restaurant means "generous". Meat Stir-Fry with Eggs (Өндөгтэй Махан Хуурга - 3,500, half 3,000T), BBQ Meat (Шорлогны Мах - 3,000, half 2,500T), Black Mushroom Stir-Fry (Хар Мөөгтэй Хуурга - 3,000, half 2,500T). Egg and Tomato Soup (Өндөг Помидорны Шөл - 1,500T). A private karaoke room can be rented for 5,000T per hour, and a very basic VIP room can be rented for 1,000T per hour.
- Bileg Tuv (Билэг Төв), Monday - Sunday, 10 a.m. - Midnight. Located halfway between the mint green Khaan Bank (Хаан Банк) and the light green Tushig Hotel is Bileg Tuv, a white building with gold lettering. The restaurant is on the 2nd floor and turns into a bar/disco at 9pm. There are a couple of private rooms for large parties or those wanting to escape the disco. Fried Beef with Peppers (Чинжүүтэй Үхрийн Шарсан Мах - 2,500T), Thin-Sliced Stir-Fried Meat (Нарийн Махан Хуурга - 2,000T), Schnitzel (Шницель - 2,500T). Fried Fish (Шарсан Загас - 2,600T).
- Buyant Restaurant, Monday - Sunday 8 a.m. - Midnight. The restaurant's sign is in English, right next to the Buyant Hotel. It sometimes holds special events, but it is usually pretty quiet. It is the only place in town that serves breakfast, but otherwise its menu is loaded with traditional Mongolian dishes. Breakfast Food: Fried Bread (Шарсан Талх - 500T), Omelet (Омелэт - 1,600T), Fried Sausage with Side Items (Хачиртай Шарсан Зайдас - 1,500T). Other Food: Black Soup (Хар Шөл - 2,200T), Kimchi Stir-Fry (Кимчитэй Хуурга - 3,800T), Egg Stir-Fry (Өндөгтэй Хуурга - 3,800T), Thin-Sliced Meat Stir-Fry (Нарийн Махан Хуурга - 2,200T), Egg Beefsteak (Өндөгтэй Бифштекс - 2,200T).
- Bounty Cafe, Mon-Sat 10 a.m. - Midnight. Recently re-opened under new management, the Bounty Cafe is attached to a 5-story apartment building behind the Hovd Theater. Fried Beef (Үхрийн Шарсан Мах - 3,500T), Pepper Stir-Fry (Амтат Чинжүүтэй Хуурга - 3,300T), Noodle Soup with Bread (Нүүдлэчин Шөл / Талх - 2,000T). Specialty dishes such as an entire cooked fish can be ordered, it appears on the menu as the Buyant River (Буянт Гол - 7,000T).
- Tsambagarav Hotel Restaurant, Monday - Sunday 8 a.m. - 11:30 p.m. The Tsambagarav's restaurant is one of the better hotel restaurants in town, and it is adjacent to a popular karaoke lounge within the hotel as well (for those who are interested, entry to the karaoke lounge costs 1,000T, and songs are free to sing after that). Black Soup with Bread (Хар Бинтэй Шөл - 2,200T), Schnitzel (Шницель - 2,600T), Goulash (Гуляш - 2,500T), Thin-Sliced Meat Stir-Fry (Нарийн Махан Хуурга - 2,400T), Tsuivan (Цуйван - 2,000T).
- Bean House Vegetarian Restaurant, Monday - Sunday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. No, that isn't a misprint, as of November 2008 Hovd City has its own vegetarian restaurant. Meatless entrees with tofu, and vegetarian versions of traditional Mongol food (vegetarian buuz, tsuivan, etc...) are available seven days a week. For those that will be in Hovd for a longer stay, the manager (a Mongolian woman named Oyunaa who happens to speak German) is willing to take requests and make changes to the menu based on what people would like to see available. Also, her husband Enkhbaatar (Cell phone: 99061462)is a driver with a Land Cruiser who is available for hire. Tsuivan (Цуйван - 1,600T), Buuz with Side Items (Хачиртай Бууз - 1,600T), Dumplings with Side Items (Хачиртай Банш - 1,600T), Piroshki (Пирошки - 300T), Spaghetti (Шпагетти - 2,000T), Fried Tofu (Шарсан Дупу 2,000T), Veggie Buuz (Бууз - 200).
- Bayanbulag Cafe / Bakery, Monday - Saturday, 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Like the Bean House Vegetarian Cafe, another indication of the expanding dining options in Hovd is the Bayanbulag Cafe, located next door to the Buyant Hotel, though the location will likely change soon. The cafe offers the traditional Mongolian guanz food, but also offers Potato Huushuur (Төмсний Хуушуур - 200T), a hot dog like roll called an Oroomog (Ороомог - 300T), and when the stars are aligned just right, you can even find Mongolian-style cheeseburgers (1,300T) and pizzas (2,600T whole, 1,000T slice) available for sale. Cakes are also available for sale by whole or by the slice.
- Od Bar Restaurant (Од Бар), Monday - Sunday, 10 a.m. - Midnight. In addition to being Hovd's newest disco, Od Bar (the name means "Star Bar) recently started operating during the day as a restaurant. Od Bar makes the daily transition from restaurant to club at 7 p.m. Fried Fish (Шарсан Загас - 3,000T), Tsuivan (Цуйван - 2,200T), Italian Schnitzel (Итали Шницель - 4,000T), Egg Stir-Fry (Өндөгтэй Хуурга - 3,500T).
- Margad Restaurant and Karaoke (Маргад), Monday - Sunday, 10 a.m. - Midnight. Located a minute north of the main square, the Margad Restaurant is next door to the Mickey Ice Cream parlor. Operating as the "Emerald" Restaurant until recently, Margad underwent a refurbishment and changed its name to "Margad", (which means Emerald in Mongolian). A private karaoke room can be rented for 5,000T per hour. Tsuivan (Цуйван - 1,500T), Goulash (Гуляш - 1,800T), Margad Stir-Fry (Маргад Хуурга - 2,800T), Egg Stir-Fry (Өндөгтэй Хуурга - 2,500T), Kimchi Stir-Fry (Кимчитэй Хуурга - 2,600T), Black Mushroom Stir-Fry (Хар Мөөгтэй Хуурга - 2,500T).
Budget
Hovd Sauce
Your best budget option is the many guanzes, or hole-in-the-wall fast food canteens that offer more traditional Mongolian fare. Scroll to the bottom of this page for pictures of the food that is usually served in guanzes. Most guanzes are only open during the day, and offer a dish until it runs out. Guanzes can be recognized because one of the following three descriptions will usually appear in Mongolian on the sign:
- Guanz (Гуанз)
- Meal Place (Зоогийн Газар)
- Tea Place (Цайны Газар)
Before listing some of Hovd City's more notable guanzes, a word needs to be said about "Hovd Sauce". This is the unofficial name of a red hot sauce that comes to Hovd from China. You'll find it in most guanzes (never in restaurants) that are worth visiting, and if you like a little added spice with your food it will add a tasty kick to anything you order at a guanz. It's available for puchase at the vendor stalls behind the Black Market, and sometimes at the Pink Market. A jar costs about 800T though the price can fluctuate a bit from day to day.
- Zochin Buuz (Зочин Бууз). Open Everyday. Everything on the menu is usually available at this popular guanz near the Black Market. This place almost always has the Chinese hot pepper sauce. A very friendly owner, a second branch recently opened about 50 meters from the first one. Located down the alley to the left of the Black Market's main entrance. Huushuur (Хуушуур 250T), Tsuivan (Цуйван - 1,100, half 900T), Tefteli (Тефтель - 1,200T), Egg Beefsteak (Өндөгтэй Бифштекс - 1,500T), Egg Stir-Fry (Өндөгтэй Хуурга - 1,800T).
- Hurga (Хурга Зоогийн Газар). Monday - Sunday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Down the alley to the left of the main entrance to the Black Market. Offers a few dishes that are harder to find in guanzes as well as the usual guanz food. Buuz (Бууз - 200T), Tsuivan (Цуйван - 1,300T), Donna (Донна - 2,000T), Eggs with Fried Sausage (Өндөгтэй Шарсан Зайдас - 2,000T).
- Pink Market Guanz. Every day except Tuesdays (the Pink Market is closed on Tuesdays) 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. On the left as you enter the Pink Market's gate. Great huushuur. Huushuur (Хуушуур - 250T), Buuz (Бууз - 200T).
- Naran Bakery (Наран Бейкери), Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. This bakery’s goods are sold around town, but you can also go straight to the source and sit in an orange cafeteria seat and drink a cup of instant coffee with your treat. Friendly staff, small, quiet place. A whole cake costs 6,000 - 7,000T, a slice of cake costs 400T, and a sugar cookie (they're pretty good) costs 200T.
- Bayankhairkhan (Police) Guanz. Monday - Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 7 p.m. This guanz's proximity to the police station makes it a popular lunchtime spot for local police. Close to the Post Office, it is a great place to eat a quick and inexpensive lunch after using the Internet. The friendly owner usually makes 2-3 dishes a day. Tsuivan (Цуйван - 1,300, half 1,000T), Buuz (Бууз - 200T), Huushuur (Хуушуур - 300T).
- Уйлс (Blue Door) Guanz. Monday - Saturday. The friendly owner and his hardworking staff usually update the white board with available dishes, if the item has a checkmark next to it, it's available. This is the closest guanz to the main square. Buuz (Бууз - 200T), Clear Noodle Stir Fry (Пүнтүүзтэй Хуурга - 1,200, 900T half), Rice Stir-Fry (Будаатай Хуурга - 900, 700T half), Tea with Meat Dumplings (Банштай Цай - 1,000T).
Ice Cream
- Mickey Ice Cream (Мики Зайрмаг). A one-minute walk north of the main square on the right hand side, sample some of Hovd's locally-produced ice cream. The cones pictured cost 350T each.
- Bambaruush Ice Cream (Бамбарууш Зайрмаг). Hovd's second ice cream parlor has a walk-up window located on the front side of the Pink Market. Offers a slightly larger variety than Mickey Ice Cream.
What Does Mongolian Food Look Like?
Buuz (pronounced like "boats") - a ball of meat, onions and seasoning wrapped in dough and pinched closed. Here is a pot of buuz being steamed at the Zochin Buuz guanz. (Бууз - 200T each).
Huushuur - a flour pocket of meat folded and fried. Picture from Zochin Buuz guanz (Хуушуур - 250T each).
Tsuivan - homemade noodles with meat, potatoes and carrots fried together. Picture from Zochin Buuz guanz (Цуйван - 1,100T).
Tefteli - Meatballs covered in gravy and served with sides. Picture from Zochin Buuz guanz (Тефтель - 1,200T).
Black Mushroom Stir-Fry with Peppers from Winner's Cafe (Хар Мөөгтэй Чинжүүтэй Хуурга - 4,400T).
Schnitzel (breaded mutton) with Beets, Mashed Potatoes and Coleslaw from Winner's Cafe (Шницель - 2,500T).
Egg Beefsteak with Fried Potatoes from Winner's Cafe (Өндөгтэй Бифштекс - 2,200T)).
Goulash with Beets, Mashed Potatoes and Coleslaw from Winner's Cafe (Гуляш - 2,000T).
Milktea (Сүүтэй Цай), Mongolia's salty traditional drink that can be found almost anywhere. Some foreigners love it, some don't. But at a price of only 150T for a cup, there's no harm in trying it yourself. (Note that milktea is made differently by different Mongolian ethnic groups, for example the Uriankhai in Hovd's Altai Mountains use yak milk and yak butter in their tea.)
